Hello. Well, it has been a while. It seems that summer has not motivated me to write. I’ve been busy making, but certainly not busy “telling.”

First, I finished knitting two sweaters in Noro yarn (they are gorgeous, and I love them), but I will leave that one for later in the fall. It’s just been too hot to take any pictures wearing them!

The Pattern

So, to the project at hand. Our daughter Rachelle had her first solo museum show and wanted something created from the fabric she designed. Naturally, that job fell to me, which I gladly accepted.

We picked Simplicity 8546, and this pattern wasn’t the best experience. This may have influenced my reluctance to discuss it. However, everything turned out fine in the end, but not without a struggle.

We chose the 6-14-sized pattern, which I thought would be fine. I’ve made this kid a few clothes over the years and never had any kind of fit issues with anything sized 14. There is a first time for everything.

The Pattern in Question

Simplicity 8546 is a simple classic shirt that has been lengthened for View B as a duster. It offers a few variations to choose from. All but B are dresses. This may have been the cause of the problems. As this is a shirt/dress pattern, it (IMO) did not have enough ease figured into the original pattern to accommodate wearing it comfortably over other layers. At least, there wasn’t enough for my daughter. My problem-solving was how to fix this.

Fortunately, I made a muslin first, and we immediately saw that it was too tight. For some reason, all the numbers weren’t adding up. It was frustrating. I don’t remember the last time I had sewn with Simplicity (I’ve been pretty much exclusively Vogue and Independent pattern makers for years), but, wow, I didn’t think it would be like this.

Strangely, when I tried to look this pattern up for a review on the site Pattern Review, I couldn’t find one. But with Instagram, it is a different story. There are so many cool versions that have been made. Everyone seems to love this pattern, and they all look great.

My Rescue Pattern

Meanwhile, in my sewing vicinity was Cashmerette’s Vernon shirt pattern, which I always meant to make for myself. With it, I made another muslin (in a 14), and it fit perfectly! I took care of one step early if I decide to make the Vernon for myself. The size 14 fits me perfectly as a shirt and works as an overshirt for Rachelle. Problem solved!

This duster is a prodigy of the Vernon (for the top) and Simplicity (for the lower sleeves and everything else. You do what you have to do.

The Pattern That Saved This Project

Extras

Rachelle likes pockets. Who among us does not? Since I was making French Seams throughout, I had to use my usual technique of French seaming the pockets. Interestingly enough, Threads magazine had an article in its summer issue about this technique.

However, I found the photos confusing and turned to my tried and true demonstration by The Global Fashion Workshop, found HERE. A tutorial is conducted by Irina (the founder), and Natalie (the seamtress.) Unfortunately, Irina passed away from Covid, but they have kept the channel going in her memory. French seam pockets will not seem hard when you watch this tutorial.

Using Gutterman’s 30 mm silk twist thread (found at Pacific Trimmings), I added a running stitch along all edges, except the bottom hem. This was just a little extra detail that I loved doing.

The Fabric

The fabric is a 54″ wide cotton/silk from Spoonflower. It is Rachelle’s design, with images taken from her art work. Currently, these are prototypes because Rachelle isn’t sure how she wants to handle releasing them. I would like to see more colorways in the collection. At this time, there are only two.

The cool thing about Spoonflower is that any design can be printed on different fiber types (including wallpaper). As a designer and maker, this gives you a wide range of choices. Spoonflower is pricy, but occasionally, has 30% sales.

Below is a bog coat that I made using their 100% organic cotton knit. With knits, the colorways are going to be much more subdued, which, for me, was perfect with this Bog. It goes with jeans, but then I can also dress it up.

That’s it. I think the end result was good, but what a rocky start! Has anyone had problems with Simplicity sizing, or is it just me?

Is she going to start sewing?

I was surprised when Rachelle asked me to teach her how to make a floor-length skirt! I said yes, and we used the exact pattern that I used for her Junior Prom skirt (do I ever throw away a pattern-NO!). That just happened a couple of weeks ago, and we both survived! Hopefully, this is a start of something good because I am about to order her some beginner-friendly patterns.

That’s it. The end result was good, but what a rocky start! Has anyone had problems with Simplicity sizing, or is it just me? It feels very satisfying to start my reviews again. It helps me think through what I did and if there was a better way to do something. Still, after all these years, sewing is a constant moving forward process for me, and there is always something to learn, which is what still keeps me moving the needle.

Thank you for coming along on the experience. Next time will not be as long because I have already finished two new pieces (one for Rachelle and one for me) using Love Notion’s Rapsody Blouse.

Until then, take care and keep moving the needle!

Terri

One last parting shot…