I’m a pattern hacker from way back. No, I’m not an Internet pirate that steals code. I change and rearrange a sewing pattern to get what I want or need. Almost every sewing blog that I follow talks about the style changes they made with their working pattern. Creative people are, well, creative.
The two fashions I’m wearing for today’s post were changed, each for a different reason, one planned and one a matter of necessity.
The Planned Pattern Hack
I wanted a dramatic high/low top for a trip that my daughters and I took to Dallas at the end of May. I settled on New Look 6439. There were things that 6439 had that I wanted; a wide V-Neck, 3/4 sleeves and a fit and flair styling.
The Sewing Nitty Gritty
To get the look I wanted, I added 5″ of length onto the front and 16″ onto the back of View D. After that, I adjusted the side seams to create a smooth transition from the front to the back.
My next step–I think really important–was to make a muslin from a cheaper polyester knit to check the sizing and make any adjustments that appeared necessary. Fortunately, the pattern itself was a good fit. The muslin step is important if you want worry free sewing .
This is an “Easy Just for Knits” pattern, a good one for beginners. The only part that needs extra attention is putting the band around the V-Neck. Basting it on before machine sewing eliminates any hardship with getting an even width.
I used my walking foot to ease the fabric through because this seems to help if you are sewing knits with a regular machine.
I like this pattern. Hmm….I can see eventually adding maybe 10” on the front and turning it into a dress…maybe with a knit that has a print.
The sizing is pretty accurate. For me, I did my usual cutting the bust part a larger size and the rest of the pattern in a smaller size.
The fabric I chose was Ken-Dor’s T7880 – Tencel™ Organic Cotton Jersey. which is 70% Lyocell (Tencel™), 30% Organic Cotton. I love Ken-Dor fabric because, “Ken-Dor takes great pride in specializing in environmentally & socially responsible knit and woven textiles and strives to ensure that partner mills adhere to multiple global standards of environmental and social compliance.”
Ken-Dor does not sell directly to consumers. I use the The Sourcing District because there is a five yard minimum on fabric orders. Although, I’m not quite a designer, The Sourcing District is perfect for smaller independent designers who don’t need hundreds of yards of a single fabric.
This fabric is silky smooth and a pleasure to work with. It will be easy to make other garments with what I have left. I think it is the perfect T-Shirt fabric.
Where Can You Buy Tencel Fabric Online?
I did a little looking around and found a large selection of Tencel at Fashion Fabric Club. I may try them out when I decide to make my dress from this pattern using a print.
The Unplanned Pattern Hack
Earlier I wrote that making a muslin of your pattern is an important step. Well…sometimes I don’t always practice what I preach.
The pattern that I used is Style Arc’s Jacinta Knit Dress. It came along with the fabric in a kit that was on clearance at Craftsy about two years ago. I had been wanting a maxi dress and really liked the fabric print.
For some reason, last summer, I just decided to cut out the dress without even worrying if it would fit. What I did worry about was matching the print stripes at the side seams. After cutting it out, it just sat there until this spring. Finally I decided to hand-baste the dress together and try it on. Oh my, this thing was so low in the front, I could never wear it out!
Okay, time to creatively correct my mistake with a pattern hack. I added an inverted triangle in black jersey knit. Wearing a black camisole underneath would also have worked, but I thought that might leave me feeling too warm.
A Little Bit About the Pattern and Sewing Nitty Gritty
Due to the minimal accompanying instructions, I would suggest this pattern is for intermediate sewers. Also, the line drawings make the dress look shaped but it is really a straight fit. But don’t be too intimidated, it is still a great summer maxi and easy to wear. I wore it on the plane when the girls and I flew to Dallas. For me, this is probably one of those one and done patterns. But I would still try a Style Arc pattern again because, in general, I like their designs.
Important Link For This Post
It’s time to button up my latest adventure with pattern hacking. I’ve changed patterns around for as long as I’ve been sewing and that is going back to the 60s. However, I’ve only come across the term “pattern hacking” a couple of years ago on social media. I guess now we have to have a name for everything.
I’ll be back when August’s 1st Friday rolls around with another Slow Fashion Walk. Until then, stay creative.
July’s Slow Fashion Walk
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Again, thanks for stopping by. Take care……..